TSS

Lambretta Forum

engine resto LI150

AutoShrine Sponsor
AutoShrine Sponsor
AutoShrine Sponsor

engine resto LI150
#1
  This topic is about my 1963 Lambretta Li 150 Series 2
dudley1972 Avatar
dudley1972 Jason C
Gillingham, Kent, UK   GBR
1962 Vespa VBB Standard 150 "Maria"
1963 Lambretta Li 150 Series 2 "Rallymaster"
Hello,
just in the middle of restoring a Series 2, the cylinder was completely seized as was the crank (see first picture 20160905_205513). After using an angle grinder I got the cylinder off and found the piston to be seized so with the help of a heat gun and Plus Gas this too was removed (2016101_213230) afterwards I found to my dismay that one stud has broken off inside the casing so looking to get this removed, I think the best oportunity will be to take this to a specialist so he can extract the stud with an extractor as I don't have this sort of tooling at home and drilling is too dangerous a venture as I don't want to mess up my casings...

Will post more pics and tips later
Jason

. Hide banner ads & support this website by becoming a > Gold Supporting Member <

Attachments:
20160905_205513.jpg    57.8 KB
20160905_205513.jpg

20161010_213230.jpg    37.8 KB
Sign In or Register to view this photo
20161010_203218.jpg    33.1 KB
Sign In or Register to view this photo
dudley1972 Avatar
dudley1972 Jason C
Gillingham, Kent, UK   GBR
1962 Vespa VBB Standard 150 "Maria"
1963 Lambretta Li 150 Series 2 "Rallymaster"
Hello,
thought I would update my progress and give tips where possible. This week I removed the mag housing on my lambretta engine. Just to warn you this is not an easy job if you are removing one out of a recently acquired wreck, my testament to this will show that I have taken 4 days to do this. If your M6 inserts are stripped (as were mine) then the only thing left is to hit the cranck on the drive side with a club hammer so that your using the cranck web to push out the mag housing, in this case I had a distinct advantage where my cranck was already seized, so after plenty of heat I managed to get this to BDC. The best tips I can give for this, apart from a lot of patience, is to apply plenty of heat around the casing with either a blow torch (or better the oven when your wife is out for the day) and soak with plenty of Plus Gas. I started to hit the mag at the joint which bent my flange, in the end the whole flange came off and I was left with the rest of it still inside the casing. consistent hitting will ruin the crankshaft splines so this is no problem if you are going to replace your crankshaft, hit with enough force but not to hard and if possible use a wooden block to shield the blow, this will save the splines on the crankshaft. Once it starts pushing you will see a gap between the crankshaft and casing on the drive side (see illustration 20161027_194124).My maghousing came out in two pieces which was annoying and will need to be replaced (see illustration 20161027_211630). Once you get your mag housing out your left with the crankshaft inside the casing, (see illustration 20161027_194930), like I said earlier this needs to be BDC (Bottom Dead Centre) or you will not get this out of the casing.As you can see my crankshaft was seized (see illustration 20161027_202154), I had to use lots of heat in order to push the conrod to the BDC position but I got there in the end. Now on to the next stage.


Attachments:
20161027_194124.jpg    37.7 KB
20161027_194124.jpg

20161027_211630.jpg    50.2 KB
Sign In or Register to view this photo
20161027_194930.jpg    54.1 KB
Sign In or Register to view this photo
IMG_20161027_202154.jpg    52.9 KB
Sign In or Register to view this photo
littlemicrocars Avatar
littlemicrocars STANLEY CASTIGLIONE
CARLSBAD, CA, USA   USA
WOW My knuckles hurt looking at the crankshaft...I have had luck by freezing cases and then heating the bearing area to expand the alloy around the bearing



Edited 2 time(s). Last edit at 2016-11-12 01:30 PM by littlemicrocars.

. Hide banner ads & support this website by becoming a > Gold Supporting Member <
dudley1972 Avatar
dudley1972 Jason C
Gillingham, Kent, UK   GBR
1962 Vespa VBB Standard 150 "Maria"
1963 Lambretta Li 150 Series 2 "Rallymaster"
Hello,
thought I would update you all on the next stage of my exciting adventure with a lambretta engine, Stanley the next stage was to remove the bearings and I have to do just what said, I used a heat gun to knock these out which worked a treat on the rear hub, but the crankshaft required the removal of 4 rather stubborn screws, see below how I did this. The crankshaft main bearing is held in by a retaining plate and 4 screws (see IMG-20161125-WA0000), this casing has never had its bearings replaced, this could be seen as they had been centre punched at the edges. After 50 years and sitting in water these screws needed real heavy duty equipment in the form of an impact screw driver and club hammer (see sticky manual for details). Make sure that you use the exact size screw driver to fit the screw or you will mangle the heads which will mean drilling and thread removal and can be costly.Firstly use a heat gun or blow torch and apply plenty of heat to the screw wells on the other side (clutch side of the casing). A top tip here is to turn your impact driver slightly, when in position, so that as soon as you use your club hammer to hit the end it will immediately transfer the force of the blow to a turning force which will cause the screw to come undone. Once you remove all four screws you can leaver the entire plate out using a flat head screw driver inserted from the crankshaft port which then will reveal the bearing (see IMG-20161130-WA0004).Before knocking out the bearing my steel plate had rusted from inside, as you can see I removed some to show this using my screwdriver (see IMG-20161130-WA0006). The bearing I proceeded to remove by applying plenty of heat on the recess on the clutch side of the casing, this I knocked out using an old engine mount (although a socket will suffice). The crankcase then looks stripped and ready for cleaning before the rebuild (see IMG-20161130-WA0009).


Attachments:
IMG-20161125-WA0000.jpeg    48.2 KB
IMG-20161125-WA0000.jpeg

IMG-20161130-WA0004.jpeg    48.1 KB
Sign In or Register to view this photo
IMG-20161130-WA0006.jpeg    46.3 KB
Sign In or Register to view this photo
IMG-20161130-WA0009.jpeg    39.8 KB
Sign In or Register to view this photo
dudley1972 Avatar
dudley1972 Jason C
Gillingham, Kent, UK   GBR
1962 Vespa VBB Standard 150 "Maria"
1963 Lambretta Li 150 Series 2 "Rallymaster"
Hi guys,
just a quick update, I have made a choice recently to fit a Mugello 198cc (IMG-20170224-WA0002) kit to my small block casing (IMG-20170225-WA0000). I just wanted to add that these are NOT (I repeat) NOT!; bolt on kits. So please be aware that some welding work and machining will be involved should you wish to achieve the full potential out of these kits. I have recently had my casings sent to an expert in the field and he has done the work for me (IMG-20170224-WA0000). As you can see these ports have been significantly widened in this case in order to allow for quicker transfer of the fuel/air mixture; this not only facilitates the intake process but also releases the full power of the kit.


Attachments:
IMG-20170224-WA0002.jpeg    34.6 KB
IMG-20170224-WA0002.jpeg

IMG-20170225-WA0000.jpeg    33.2 KB
Sign In or Register to view this photo
IMG-20170224-WA0000.jpeg    28.1 KB
Sign In or Register to view this photo
dudley1972 Avatar
dudley1972 Jason C
Gillingham, Kent, UK   GBR
1962 Vespa VBB Standard 150 "Maria"
1963 Lambretta Li 150 Series 2 "Rallymaster"
Hello one & all,
Latest update with Rallymaster engine, I started off rebuilding this last week and using a heat gun, an old bearing and a mallet proceeded to put my new bearings into the crankcase. It is well advised that these should be placed in the freezer beforehand and heating the casings until your saliva boils on the casings (IMG-20170316-WA0010.jpeg). Next stage was to insert the crank, this should go in fairly easily, however you will need to use a special tool or tube to draw the crank through the main bearing, once these procedure was complete (IMG-20170316-WA0012.jpeg)I went on to install the gearbox. Installing the gearbox should be fairly straight forward, I followed the instructions out of Sticky's Manual to fit this (IMG-20170319-WA0002.jpeg), it is adviseable to check out the thicknesses of all your shims in the gearbox as if these are wrong you will experience probels changing gear. Will update later once I finish putting on the cylinder head and clutch.
Jayson


Attachments:
IMG-20170316-WA0010.jpeg    39.4 KB
IMG-20170316-WA0010.jpeg

IMG-20170316-WA0012.jpeg    37 KB
Sign In or Register to view this photo
IMG-20170319-WA0002.jpeg    47.2 KB
Sign In or Register to view this photo
. Hide banner ads & support this website by becoming a > Gold Supporting Member <

To add your reply, or post your own questions

Members Sign In   or   Create an Account

Registration is FREE and takes less than a minute!


Having trouble posting or changing forum settings?
Read the Forum Help (FAQ) or contact the webmaster





Join The Club

Sign in to ask questions, share photos, and access all website features

Your Scooters

1960 Vespa 150 GL

Text Size

Larger Smaller
Reset Save

Sponsor Links